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How long Berlin's Field of Stelae really takes, what the information centre underneath it adds, and the three memorials five minutes away that most visitors walk straight past.

The Soviet memorial, the Spree promenade and the woods behind them are at their best in flat November light. This is the route, what is open and what the restoration has fenced off.

Berlin's oldest street plan was rebuilt from rubble in the 1980s, and once you know which houses are real the ten-minute walk becomes a half-day.

The gate is free and never shuts. How much of it you see depends on the rooms around Pariser Platz.























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